31 August 2009

Primer día de clases

Today was the first day of school here at SU Madrid. I have to say, I loved it. I have been looking forward to classes starting since I got here, and I wasn't disappointed at all. All classes taught in Spanish this semester, so that they count toward my degree, of course.

Spanish 400: El cine español contemporáneo
This class seems very interesting to me, especially after taking a film class last semester and enjoying it so much. Bobby, the instructor, was also our chief instructor for the Mare Nostrum seminar, so I know him well and know I enjoy his teaching style. The guy holds—I believe—two Master's degrees and a PhD so he's a bit of a human encyclopædia. He expects a lot out of his students but gives fair exams and really shows you a lot of interesting things. I am hoping that my (limited, but still existent) knowledge of cinematographic and mise-en-scène techniques will make this class somewhat easy for me.

Fine Arts 411: Arte español moderno
I have never taken an art class and know next to nothing about "art", so jumping right into a 400-level art history class should be interesting. But I'm not that worried about it because it is a survey-type course, and the professor seems like he really knows what he's doing—as in, he teaches at the Universidad Autónoma de Madrid and has written chapters of several books about modern Spanish art. Much of this class takes place in the big art museums of Madrid: the Prado, the Reina Sofia, and the Thyssen. I figure that taking this class would be a good way to open my eyes to the art world and to get to experience a tour of the city's famous museums by a bona fide expert. I'm a little worried about having to do memorization of dates and stuff, but from what we've seen so far, it seems pretty conceptual.

Latin American Studies 322: La historia de América latina colonial
It seems a little counter-intuitive to go all the way to Spain to take a Latin American history class when it is a widely studied topic in the Americas (of course), but the profesora Elena (who rocks) did a pretty good job convincing us that Latin American studies is a very strong field in Spain because of the shared history, language, and culture, and that her school—UAM, like the art professor—is perhaps the top school in the world for said field. So that's all good. A lot of the curriculum consists of watching movies and discussing them. We're also going to a couple museums and going to a Mexican restaurant; the latter made my eyes light up because we have looked high and low and we have not found a Mexican restaurant here in Madrid yet! I like this class because the professor is "not big on exams" (paraphrasing, of course)... and indeed, the three classes I've had so far have not seemed very work-intensive. And I like that of course because of the "easiness" factor but also because I get the impression that the emphasis here is placed more on understanding concepts well and less on assessment. The instructors want to make sure you get out to the museums and SEE the culture instead of reading about it. They want you to understand how Picasso's art evolved, rather than memorizing the dates of his specific eras. I don't know. Part of it could also be that in Spanish universities—not at SU, unfortunately—anything 85% or better is an A for the class.

Spanish 435: Fonética española
This class hasn't happened yet, and won't until Thursday, but it will be interesting because it is looking right now like there will only be two people in it—me, and Lauren! So, hopefully they keep the class open and don't cancel it, because I need the upper-level Spanish credits.


It just kind of hit me on the Metro ride back from school today that this is it—I'm here, I'm doing it, I'm studying abroad. Into the swing of things now, and not waiting for any more dates in the future. And so far, I really have to say I feel immersed. Still want to speak more Spanish with my friends, but that will happen now that all my classes have started. I indulged in a crucial aspect of Spanish life—seriously—by staying out all night at a disco this past weekend, munching on churros y chocolate before dawn, and taking the first Metro home in the morning. I feel assimilated with my small host family, as Pilar and I watch the news together and have nice chats during dinner, and last night I was invited to a walk through the Buen Retiro park with her and her 18-month-old grandson Hermán (and his dog Alita who is awesome and I wish lived with us full-time). Sometimes I do wish I had a roommate, but it's nice because being at "home" is strictly Spanish time and I'm not tempted to goof around and speak English with a roommate. I've also made some cool friends here and am meeting more new people every day from the other seminars. All said, things are great in Madrid and I am really excited to start my "service learning" teaching English to Spanish elementary-aged kids and to get to travel throughout Spain and abroad!

Bad things about studying abroad so far: banged my toe going up the stairs at the Metro station on Saturday, and part of my nail fell off today. Lunch is getting cheaper as I find new places but is still entirely too expensive. I like coffee now—a lot.

That's all.

¡Ciao!

29 August 2009

Me gusta / No me gusta

I've been in Madrid for a few days now... it's time to play ME GUSTA / NO ME GUSTA, the exciting game where I pass judgment on things that I have seen here so far!


ME GUSTA living with a host family. I think that Pilar and I are getting along very well -- nice sobremesas after dinner, and some quality time just watching TV or reading. I think that my Spanish is getting better from living here and trying to express thoughts that occur outside a Spanish classroom. I am a little bummed that my American friends don't speak Spanish outside the classroom really, but once school starts we will be getting a lot more of that classroom time.

NO ME GUSTA how hot it is here. I'm living in a 9th floor apartment so while we sometimes get a cross-breeze, more often than not it's just hotter than blazes with a wicked sun. I think all the squinting and sunshine -- things I was NOT accustomed to this summer in Syracuse -- are tiring me out, causing me to need to take a siesta late each afternoon. (Hey, nothing wrong with that, right? Adopting the culture.) Only problem is I wake up from said siesta drenched in sweat... for the heat. I guess it's unusually hot for this time of year (90+ºF every day) and it seems to be all anyone can talk about, but still, being here has made me appreciate my Syracuse summers a little bit.

ME GUSTA the food. I have grown to appreciate red wine much more since I've been here, and I love me some tinto de verano, served ice cold. I've had the old standbys: tapas like patatas bravas and calamaris, paella, tortilla española, and copious amounts of olive oil... but I've enjoyed all types of things here, including some great sandwiches, Italian food, and sushi. I guess being in a big city is conducive to finding new, delicious food choices, and I am loving it.

NO ME GUSTA paying for lunch every day. It IS better than having to pay for all my meals. But expensiveish cafeterias/restaurants coupled with a bad exchange rate = DEATH. I need to find a reliably cheap bocadillo place near Syracuse's campus where I can grab a sandwich for 2-3€ because while I like eating well and there are tons of great food options in Madrid, I cannot afford to be spending 9-12€ every day for lunch.

ME GUSTA the fact that my new cell phone has games. What ever happened to that sterling ideal of American culture, that cell phones should have simple games to keep you occupied sitting on a train or in a boring class? Being able to play Minesweeper -- check that, "Buscaminas" -- on my phone is awesome. Snake is no slouch, either.

NO ME GUSTA the cost of my prepaid, Poser Mobile plan or the fact that this phone doesn't have a camera. TwitPic is officially on hold until my return to the States. (However, I can RECEIVE calls for free, so feel free to give me a call if you've got an extra $20 laying around... or a calling card.)

ME GUSTA the people here. There's always this reputation in the States that Europeans are snobby elitists and so far in Spain that has simply not been true. Any Spaniard I have talked to has been very nice, helpful, and friendly. (Except certain clerks, naturally.) Last night, on the taxi ride home, my driver noticed by my accent that I was American and started speaking to me in English... but my Spanish was definitely better than his English so we switched over. We had an interesting conversation that was partly in both languages, where he'd ask me a question in Spanish, I'd answer, and then he'd ask me how to ask that in English and repeat with sometimes hilarious results. Also had a nice chat about American and Spanish politics with Alberto and two Catalans late one night in Girona. It's been fun getting to know locals and I hope I can do more of that.

NO ME GUSTA some of the fashion choices here. It's true: Madrid can be a very fashion-conscious, posh city, and a lot of people look pretty good -- I need to step my game up. However, for a lot of people here, looking good means a faux-hawk/mullet combination with a popped collar and man purse (or, "murse"). Before I left, I seriously contemplated starting a blog called "Nice Capris, Dude" -- cast from the same mold as "Straight Cash Homey" -- where people would be encouraged to send in pictures they've snapped of, well, dudes wearing capris. I'm glad I didn't start the blog, because living in Madrid, it's a little too easy. Capris on dudes are everywhere. Now... jorts I can deal with. I won't wear them, but I can deal with them. Japris, though? Oh God. I'm not a fashion snob and I dress like a bum 3/4 of the time, but that won't get a "smart look," even from me.

ME GUSTA the public transit! The Metro is awesome: clean and easy to use. (This was one of the things I was looking forward to, being in a big city.)

NO ME GUSTA the cost of taxis. Blah.

As usually happens with these things, the idea has run out of gas. So, until next time, thanks for playing ME GUSTA / NO ME GUSTA!

26 August 2009

Barcelona y Madrid

Finally, I have moved in with my señora here in Madrid! Her name is Pilar and I like her a lot. Very kind, very sweet lady. A good cook too -- and I have a spacious room with a nice bathroom. So, overall, things are going really great here. Today, we start orientation here in Madrid, so I can get to know the city and how to use the Metro, etc. I will get to meet many more kids from the different presemester seminars, so I'm psyched about that.

That said, though, I miss Mare Nostrum! We all had a really good time. Barcelona is a beautiful city. Much different than I imagined, though. Big and touristy -- reminded me a little bit of New York. The language issue there was interesting because everyone speaks Catalán, Spanish, and English. Thus, when you walk into a store and you are identified as American / not Spanish (not all that difficult to peg me, either), you will probably get spoken to in English, which for me was a little frustrating. But here in Madrid, the only language is Spanish -- English is a distant second.

The language issue fascinated me, though. In America, we see disturbing and xenophobic signs saying things like "This is America, please speak English!" We see bilingualism as a problem -- you're not a true American unless English is your first language or some nonsense like that. Here, that is not the case at all. The other day, I walked into a laundromat in Barcelona on Calle Joaquín Costa, which is an ethnically diverse neighborhood. I was greeted by a Pakistani man in Spanish. When I replied, he asked in perfect English if I wanted my clothes washed. I said yes and as I was loading the washer, I looked around and saw various Arabic signs throughout his store. But the storefront sign itself was in Catalán. This man runs his own business in another country and speaks, by my count, four languages. That, to me, is a hallmark of a hard-working and intelligent person and is something that should be celebrated, not stigmafied. I almost feel a little silly telling people my major is Spanish. I am struggling to grasp this second language, but many Europeans are born knowing two or three and can learn more. Assuming my Spanish ends up near fluent, when I have children someday, I want to raise them bilingually. I want to be a part of the generation that marks the end of the "learn to speak English!" era.

The sights in and near Barcelona were something else. My favorite part of the trip so far was probably the "Teatro-Museo Dalí", in Figueras. Dalí was an impressive mind. (As was Picasso, whose museum we saw in Barcelona.) Both painters impressed me with their earlier works as well as their later works. In their early works, they showed a clear mastery of the established form... wonderful still-lifes and realistic portraits, before diving into surrealism and cubism, respectively. I think that is a common thread across the arts. Beethoven could not have been Beethoven without studying and thoroughly understanding Mozart and Haydn before him. Likewise, Dalí would not have been the respected, revered artist he is without first mastering the art forms that came before him. It is all very interesting.

The architecture of Gaudí in Barcelona was otherworldly, too. We saw the Temple of the Sacred Family (la Sagrada Familia), and an apartment building that he designed. (Also the Parc Güell, which you saw if you saw the movie "Vicky Cristina Barcelona.") Gaudí and Dalí are treated like a national treasure there in Cataluña... and as they should be. They were bona fide geniuses. I will post pictures of this stuff as soon as I can get my pictures off my roommate Alberto's camera!

We also went to a FC Barcelona match in Camp Nou against AC Bilbao. It was SO much fun! The tickets only cost 30€ each for the five of us, and we had to wait a few hours to get in... but it was worth the cost and the wait. Spanish soccer is something else. The chants, the cheers, the tension. I didn't really "get" soccer until the other night, when I saw it live. You can see the plays develop, see the passes in their full arc, and see just how close a play really came to being a goal. Barcelona ran circles around Bilbao, eventually winning 3-0. (We left some 10 minutes early to be sure we caught the last Metro train back... and we did get the LAST train.) And even though I live three blocks from Santiago Bernabeu where Real Madrid plays, and I will leave Spain a Real Madrid fan, I regret no part of buying my replica Xavi jersey and going to that game with my friends. A great experience.

Running out of time -- until later, ¡salud!

18 August 2009

Tarragona, la capital romana

Queridos amigos -- I dont have much time and I cant do apostrophes but I am doing very well! Spain has been incredible so far. Never thought my language skills could improve so much in so little time... and in a week when I move in with a host family that only speaks Spanish, things will move even more quickly. I can carry on conversations with bellhops, housekeepers, bartenders, waiters, and friends more easily than I ever thought possible! And Spanish TV has never been so digestible.

I have pictures but cant upload them until I get to Madrid! But you can imagine... were in the old Roman provinicial capital, Tarragona (Wikipedia it!) and it is incredible. Remnants of a Roman coliseum and a Roman circus remain in the town with a pretty cool museum. Also, its right on the Mediterranean!!! So weve been swimming in the sea every day. Such calm, warm, and clear waters! Ive never been in anything like it.

For now this is about all I have time to write. I will post pictures of Tarragona's Festival de Sant Magí (in the local language, Catalunyan) and the insanity that THAT was.

A rundown of our modified itinerary: tomorrow, we leave for the city of Gerona, about which I know nothing except that its in the neighboring province of Lleida... Then its off for four nights where our seminar group Mare Nostrum meets up with one of the others, EuroVision... our Spanish will be much, much better haha. After that, its off to Madrid to really get this thing started. Registering for classes tonight and finding out what my host family will be like.

Hope that all is well with everyone back in the States. If you send me an email I will try to respond. Or comment here or on Facebook... Starting on the 25th I will have internet full-time (maybe) and will be able to be online more. (But not so much more that I dont go out and have a good time!)

Watch for postcards in the coming months. Best I can send now is an abrazo fuerte... ¡Qué todos vayan bien!

09 August 2009

Spain and Picasa Photo Posting

Hola todos -- for those who don't know, I am spending the upcoming academic term living in Madrid, Spain. I'm a Spanish major, and I have never lived outside the country, so I am pretty stoked about the whole thing. I know, though: You're scared. What will happen to your favorite infrequently updated blog? Never fear, for it's retooling and will come back stronger than you could have ever imagined.

My flight for Spain leaves Friday at 18:00 ET, so after that time my phone will be turned off and I will be unreachable except via Skype or email, or this blog. However, I'll be checking in here from time to time to blog about what's been happening overseas and what I've been up to. Hopefully this will be about once a week -- it will likely be less, but it won't be never. This will be an easy for anyone who cares to keep up with my wild time abroad. Additionally, I have set up an account at Picasa, where I will post photos I have taken in Spain and anywhere else I might travel. (Don't fret about the sketchy-looking TinyURL link to my Picasa account; it really goes there. I'm just doing that to protect my own flimsy anonymity.) So feel free to keep up with me here for all the rundowns of what I'm doing and photos to go along with it -- I'll post something here when I've posted photos, too.

In the meantime, I will be scrambling to pack and make sure I have everything together before I go. It seems extremely daunting, packing for a four-month vacation, but I am sure by Friday morning I will be ready to go. My group is flying into Barcelona, and we're taking a two-credit "class" whose curriculum includes a twelve-day jaunt through Barcelona, Valencia, and Mallorca. Once I get over there, we'll see how far my eight years of Spanish study have really brought me. Wish me buena suerte and keep checking here for updates!

¡Chao!

07 August 2009

If You Don't Like This, You're Wrong

It's been a while since I've posted -- stay tuned for format changes.

But for now, I have to get this out there. My friend Mike does not care for Radiohead much -- he's heard the big singles, but he's just not a fan of the band. Even though he's already pretty sure he's decided on Radiohead, I've told him that he can't just dismiss them without giving them a fair shake by listening to OK Computer, one of the greatest and most influential albums of the 90s (and probably of our generation). Mike was putting up a bit of a stink about it, and finally Danny Macintosh and I flatly said to him: If you don't like this, you're wrong.

Obviously, all forms of art -- including music -- have beauty or lack thereof in the eye of the beholder. Some things are just so perfect and well-crafted, though, that to not like them really does seem wrong -- like you're tragically missing out on some aspect of the human emotional experience by not being able to appreciate it.

So I wondered, apart from OK Computer, what else has attained "if you don't like this, you're wrong" status? This is my list -- feel free to leave suggestions. These might seem obvious, by the way, but that's the point: It's not your personal, quirky, desert-island music / high art, but rather stuff that you or any other rational person would unquestionably say someone who hates it is wrong.


If You Don't Like This, You're Wrong
  • Mozart - Requiem Mass in D minor: Perfect harmonies and instrumentation carried Mozart's music toward early Romanticism and Beethoven. If you've seen Amadeus, you have a sense of what this piece meant to the composer personally, too.

  • Led Zeppelin IV: This suggestion comes from Mike. I'd tend to agree that most any Led Zeppelin work belongs here -- maybe even the entire repertoire.

  • The Beatles - Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band: Just an unreal album that changed rock completely.

  • Beethoven's Ninth Symphony in E minor: Gets my vote for greatest work of art in the history of Western civilization.

  • The Shawshank Redemption: Just about the perfect movie. I know there are lots of "perfect movies," and I am sure I can find someone who could nitpick with me about Shawshank, but come on. The human drama, the intertwining storylines, the honest feeling of rooting for Andy the whole time, and the unbelievable ending... and the greatest bro-hug in the history of film to cap it all off. Even JAMES ARTHUR BOEHEIM III thinks this is the best movie ever. And he just landed Fab de Melo -- so there.
    Other movie candidates: The Graduate, Godfather I and/or II, Rocky I, Saving Private Ryan... and boy, that's about it.

There are TONS more but I don't have time to list them all right now so let me know what you think!